Quilt with Pantographs on a Qzone Frame

This week I’m diving into pantograph quilting once again and trying this style of quilting on the Q-Zone Hoop Frame. This is very different from pantograph quilting on a large 3 rail frame like the Continuum because you have shift the quilt from side to side as you advance the quilt through the frame. See what I mean in this new video:

Click Here to check out the Q-Zone Hoop Frame. This small frame takes up only 54-inches of space so it can fit in smaller areas, and you can begin with your home sewing machine too. In this way, this frame can grow with you and help you figure out if frame quilting is for you.

If you’re confused or unfamiliar with pantograph quilting, you’ll want to check out my previous article where I show exactly how it works.

I’ve also written a Pantograph Quilting Guidebook which details the steps to quilting with pantos on a 3 rail frame like the Continuum. It works a bit differently on the Q-Zone Hoop Frame because you have to shift the quilt from side to side.

Yes, this was the first time I did this so it wasn’t perfect, and it likely won’t be perfect for you either.

How to Quilt Pantographs on the Q-Zone Hoop Frame

The first step is to find the limits of your frame. This will show you approximately how much quilt-able space you have to work with. You will have to slightly guesstimate this space to the front and back to take into account how much space the quilt will take up.

I worked from the back of the frame and placed 1/4-inch masking tape on the back table top. This masking tape will guide how big a pantograph I can quilt and where the paper should be placed. Remember, once you begin finding the limits of your frame, try not to move your laser light or it will throw things off.

The pantograph I’m using is Loopy Line, which is ideal for beginners to pantograph quilting. Click Here to find the pantographs I’ve published so far.

I add special dashed lines to my pantographs which make it easier to advance the quilt through the frame to reach the next row and evenly space the design.

Begin Quilting the Pantograph

Once your pantograph paper is taped in place, pull up thread on the edge of your quilt. Pantographs are meant to be quilted across the quilt in rows. Make sure to check in on your tension in the batting area to be sure your machine is stitching beautifully before getting started.

Because of the way the Q-Zone Hoop Frame is designed, you don’t want to stop halfway through a row. If you begin a row of quilting, carry it through all the way to the other side of the quilt before stopping for the day.

Follow the line on the paper with the laser light as closely as you can. If you miss the line or veer off, don’t worry about it! Your goal is to try to stay consistent with smooth movements. This works best when you don’t have to worry about the quilt at all, so make sure the quilt top is secured with all of the clamps so it doesn’t do anything weird while your eyes are on the pantograph.

Advancing the Quilt from Side to Side

This is the tricky part and I’m honestly still testing the best method for shifting the quilt so it stays perfectly straight across the frame.

First challenge: wherever you ended in the design, you need to begin at that same point so the design remains continuous. Be sure to mark where you ended (before a loop, at a point, etc) with a bit of tape so you can reference that spot as you quilt across the quilt multiple times.

When you’re ready to shift the quilt, make sure the needle and foot is in the down position. Lock your horizontal channel lock so the machine can only move from left to right.

Remove your clamps and back straps but keep the one clamp directly behind the machine. This allowed me to shimmy the quilt all the way over while keeping the quilt nice and straight. As you shift the quilt across the frame, keep your eye on the laser. Stop shifting when the laser light reaches the corresponding spot in the design, as far to the side of the frame as you can go.

Lock the second channel lock to keep the machine in that position. Carefully clamp your quilt back in place, being careful not to put too much tension on it, or you could make the pantograph design veer slightly to the top or bottom of the quilt.

Final Thoughts on Pantograph Quilting on a Small Frame

This is challenging! I still haven’t figured out the most efficient way to shift the quilt side to side. Maybe this will be easier on a real quilt where I have more seamlines to help keep the quilt straight on the frame.

I ultimately did veer off, which was a discrepancy of an inch. What that means was at one side the design started 1 1/2-inch from the edge of the fabric and when I reached the other end of the quilt, the design was 1/2-inch from the edge of the fabric. This means my Loopy Line design veered slightly upwards as I quilted across the quilt.

This is a problem because pantographs depend on being quilted in straight rows. When I advanced the quilt through the frame, I was more careful when quilting the second row and it ended up overlapping the first row.

As with all things, practice makes perfect! I’ll definitely be experimenting more with pantograph quilting on the Q-Zone Frame, so stay tuned for more videos and troubleshooting!

Let’s go quilt,

Leah Day

More Frame Quilting Friday Videos

First Stitch Out on the Grace Qnique 21 on the Continuum Frame

Quilting My First Quilt on the Q-Zone Frame

Finishing a Quilt on the Q-Zone Frame

Quilting with Rulers on the Q-Zone Frame