Much Ado About Quilting Needles and Thread

Several quilters have been asking about quilting needles and thread. Specifically on how to choose which needles to use with which threads and for which quilting situations. So here’s a post all about the needles and thread I use for piecing quilt blocks and machine quilting on my home machine. I’ve also recently updated this post to include information about my longarm quilting needles and thread too!

Now, I must say from the first that I’m probably the worst quilter to write about this because my opinion on needles and thread would probably make most other professional quilters cringe.

Or cover their ears.

Or run away screaming.

My Favorite Home Machine Needles

Here’s the truth: I’ve only used Universal 80/12 needles in my home sewing machine since 2005.

I don’t use different needles for piecing. I don’t use different needles for quilting. Yes, I actually use the same needles for almost everything.

Of course, now that I’ve admitted that, I’ve probably just flushed my credibility down the drain.

Professional “experts” are supposed to have hoity toity expensive advice, like to only use gold embossed, impossible-to-find needles that cost more than my son’s new shoes.

Frankly, I don’t have the money and I don’t have the time to mess with funky needles. I just want to sew and quilt and I don’t want to think about what needle is in the machine, if it’s properly balanced with my thread weight and ply. Too many quilters make this WAY… TOO… COMPLICATED!

When I Use Different Needle Types

The reason why I use only one needle for quilting on my home machine is because of my history sewing garments professionally. When I sewed 50-60 garments a week, I DID change needles – often!

I was sewing knit fabrics, cotton woven fabrics, denim, corduroy, and slinky (a truly horrible stretchy material that still gives me nightmares). I’d separate my bag of cut garments by the type of cloth so I could change needles efficiently. I’d stitch the knit fabrics and slinky using a Jersey or Ball point needle, then switch to a Universal needle for the cotton, denim, and corduroy.

When piecing and quilting normal patchwork quilts, however, the material I’m using doesn’t change. My needle is stitching through 100% cotton fabric, or cotton fabric and batting. Because the fabric type doesn’t change, I don’t feel a need to change my needle.

So I piece, applique, and free motion quilt all with a Schmetz 80/12 Universal Needle.

How Often I Change Needles

Here’s the important bit: I change needles about 2-4 times a month, depending on how much I’m using the machine.

I personally believe that changing needles regularly is far more important than the type of needle you use.

Needles can become bent or burred, and are often the culprit behind breaking threads and stitch issues. Changing needles more regularly can dramatically improve your stitch quality and your frustration level with your machine.

I should know this from experience – the machine I had growing up had a total of 1 needle change every 5 years. To say it straight – that machine stitched horribly – and that is not an exaggeration!

Keeping Needle Choice Simple

Why do I use Universal 80/12 needles so much? Because they work well for me in my machines and don’t skip stitches or break my thread. If I suddenly began having issues with this needle type or size, if my thread suddenly began breaking all the time, I’d find something that worked better.

I like to keep things very simple, and also less expensive. Having 10 different types of sewing machine needles in my drawer is costly both in the price of materials and having a place to store and organize it all!

So long as what I’m using is working and I’m able to make the quilts I want to make, I don’t change it.

This is why I’m still piecing and machine quilting with the same thread – even after more than 10 years of quilting. The reason why I love the Universal 80/12 is because they work great with both cotton and polyester threads.

The Quilting Thread I Use Daily

Here are the threads I’ve used for quilt piecing and machine quilting, embroidery and longarm quilting for years:

For quilt piecing, I use Aurifil 50 weight Mako Cotton Thread. It’s thin, virtually lint-free, and comes in a million colors, though I mostly use white. Yes, you can use this thread for machine quilting. Sometimes if I’m feeling lazy I will leave it in my home machine for free motion quilting.

It can free motion quilt beautifully, but every once and while I’ll travel stitch and break thread and I find that annoying. That’s why I use a different thread for machine quilting.

For free motion quilting, walking foot quilting, ruler quilting, longarm quilting (and any other new forms of quilting we might invent in the future!) I use Isacord Polyester Embroidery Thread.

Isacord comes in one weight and type – 40 weight, polyester – and YES, it’s terrific for machine quilting!

Are You SURE You Use This Quilting Thread?

I’m updating this post in 2023 and I’ve been using Isacord thread in my quilts since 2009. I still get emails from quilters deeply concerned about using a polyester thread designed for embroidery no less, for machine quilting.

Having used this thread now for more than 14 years, I can safely say it works great. It stands the test of time as well! I’ve used Isacord to quilt baby quilts, table cloth quilts that get washed weekly, and changing table covers and the thread still looks as good today as it did when the project was first quilted.

I’m still not sure where the disconnect is here. If a thread is good enough for machine embroidery – and machine embroidered garments get washed often – why would the same thread not work great for machine quilting?

But What Do You Use for Bobbin Thread?

If this whole quilting needles and thread topic wasn’t complicated enough, we now have specialty bobbin threads to deal with. Extra thin, extra smooth, extra invisible to hide in your backing fabric – uggh. You can probably tell, I don’t like special bobbin threads and I don’t use them.

I always use the same thread in the bobbin that I’m using in the top.

So if I’m piecing and Aurifil Thread is in the top of the machine, the same color Aurifil is wound in the bobbin.

If I’m machine quilting, I have Isacord thread loaded in the top of the machine, I have the same color Isacord thread wound on the bobbin.

WAIT!!! Same COLOR?

What if My Bobbin Thread Contrasts with the Quilt Backing?

Yes, that will happen. Thread can be allowed to show and yes, I’m okay with my thread contrasting on the front and back of my quilts.

Part of building good skills for machine quilting is taking responsibility for what the back of your quilt looks like. When you hear your machine gag, stop and take a look. Deal with your thread breaks. Don’t leave birds nests on the back of your quilt.

Another thing I’ve found is that thread likes to balance with itself. I rarely have to adjust my tension dial if I use the same thread in the bobbin as the top of the machine. If I put a super thin bobbin thread in, however, I’m going to have to do a lot of tedious fiddling and stitch testing to get the tension balanced.

Using the same color thread also hides small tension inconsistency. No machine stitches with perfect tension all the time – especially when free motion quilting. When you contrast thread, you’ll end up continually fiddling and obsessing about your tension. Save time, save brain space, and keep it simple – use the same thread in the bobbin.

Simple. Easy. Efficient. Cheap.

I guess it really does boil down to simplicity. In my sewing space, I have a drawer filled with Aurifil thread in around two dozen colors for quilt piecing. That’s around one spool for each color of the rainbow, plenty of white and black. I have several bobbins already wound of Aurifil in the drawer next to my machine so it’s easy and fast to grab a matching bobbin and start piecing.

For Isacord, I have a much, much bigger collection – well over 300 spools in all different colors and shades. Why so much more thread? Because I use Isacord for all types of machine quilting, applique and machine embroidery. This thread is truly triple duty!

I know what you’re wondering – why don’t I use Isacord for quilt piecing too? The reason is simple – it’s too slippery for chain piecing. When I stitch straight across and clip the thread tails short, the slippery thread likes to pull free and unravel.

This is why I tie off and bury my thread tails. Every single line of quilting. Every single time. Click Here to find a tutorial and the tools I use for quickly securing thread tails.

What I Use for Longarm Quilting

When I originally wrote this post, I had only ever quilted on a home machine set in a table. Now I have a lot more machines to play with and quilting frames too!

For my longarm quilting machines, I still use Isacord thread. It handles the higher speed of my longarms just fine and I still rarely experience thread breaks.

Quilting needles, however, are a little different. I had bad luck quilting with such a small needle size on my longarms. Too many thread breaks! These days I use a Size 18 needle, and a specific longarm machine style, and this works great!

I still wind my bobbins from the same spool of Isacord thread. I match the same thread and color and this still works just as good as it did for home machine quilting. If it’s not broke – don’t fix it!

Weird Needles for Weird Threads

There are a few situations I’ve found that do warrant a needle change, but most involve playing with weird threads and weird fabrics.

The most common is metallic threads. Whether it’s for applique or free motion quilting, unless you’re couching the metallic thread on top (meaning it’s not going through the needle), you really should use a Metallic Needle.

I’ve never experienced anything that makes me scream at my sewing machine more often and with more exuberance than metallic thread. While I love them, I truly do, I have a strong suspicion that metallic threads hate my guts.

And that is probably due to my use-only-one-type-of-needle thing. Once I’ve broken thread about 10 times and am seething with anger, I finally go dig up my pack of metallic needles and – Viola! – stitching magic is back in action.

I’ve also linked up some Vanish Extra thread above and you might be wondering why. This is my favorite water soluble thread for doing special techniques like trapunto. Yes, there are times I actually want my stitches to wash out completely – and this is the thread I use for that!

Common Sense Approach to Quilting Needles and Thread

Obviously I have a pretty economical mindset when it comes to these materials. I’ve invested a significant amount of money into Aurifil and Isacord threads. If I was to change thread brands at this point, it would require more storage, more space, buying lots of colors, testing the thread, and getting used to using it.

My honest opinion is that no one – not me, not your mom, or your next quilting teacher can tell you what needles will work the best for your machine in all situations. Only you can find what works for you by trying out a few different types and sizes and see what works.

Once you find the Goldilocks size, buy it in bulk! Same goes for thread. It’s so nice having a drawer full of threads that I know will definitely work for me, in lots of colors so I can grab a spool and start a new project without having to stop and shop for the right color first.

What do you think about quilting needles and threads? What do you use in your machines? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Let’s go quilt!

Leah Day

LeahDay

Leah Day has been teaching online since 2009. She's the creator of the Free Motion Quilting Project, a blog filled with thousands of quilting tutorial videos. Leah has written several books including 365 Free Motion Quilting Designs, Explore Walking Foot Quilting with Leah Day, and Mally the Maker and the Queen in the Quilt.

37 Responses

  1. Beverley says:

    Although not a quilter, but I do use free motion quilting stitches, I change my needle for every project. Recent machine servicing and was told to change needle after every 8 hours sewing… which is about what I am doing. I also thoroughly clean out my machine after every project, may be a quick brush in between if needed. My machine is 20 years old, purrs along, and I think it has a lot to do with these two absolutes. There's something satisfying about starting a new project with a nice clean machine and new needle, ready to go!

  2. Maria says:

    Leah – I just love your way to use needles! Some weeks ago I was going to teach some ladies. One of them asked: "Which needle du you use?" I said;"The one, that is already in my machine!" It is such an nice and relaxing way to work!

  3. lw says:

    If you always use the same weight thread, there's no need to change your needle size. I go up to 90/14 for 40 wt or 30 wt thread and I use 80/12 for 50 wt. I did go to a finer needle for 100 wt silk, it kept breaking in the larger needle.

    If you find that metallics are shredding in 80/12, just go up a size. But I agree with you, if it's working, don't change it.

  4. Mihaela says:

    Reading this post – I must say that I'm really in love with you!I'm a beginner in quilting and I follow your blog for long time because I have been learning so much from you…xox…
    Until this post I felt guilty that I think as you in this matter of needles and threads. From now on I won't!
    Thank you, dear Leah from your sincere advices!
    I hope to be able someday to buy one of your wonderful product about free motion quilting.Unfortunately, shipping to Europe from USA is huge….it doubles the price of the product, no matter which, general speaking…
    Anyway, Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

  5. Judy says:

    Hi! Leah,

    Good to have a run down on needles and threads, I don't think you have lost your credability I do much same as you and know few others who do likewise. Heartly agree!

  6. Nikki says:

    Finally somone willing to state their own opinion!! I have to agree I have no idea about needles and will be taking you up on the thread suggestion since my last attempt at FMQ I had enough lint to sandwhich another quilt!! Thank you so much for all you do and that you speak your mind it is hard to find someonw in the lime light so to say that only speaks of their sponsors!!

  7. zarina says:

    I restarted my quilting end of 2008 by purchasing a Janome 6500. I too exclusively use their needle, Organ but in different sizes because I have issue with FMQ. For thread, I use Superior So Fine.

  8. DragonPoodle says:

    Thanks for the refreshing dose of common sense. I think much of what we read/are told springs from a desire to sell as much merchandise to as many quilters as possible. I like your attitude MUCH better!

  9. claire says:

    woohooooo!!
    This is such music to my ears. I am always getting withering looks when I take my machine to a course, or get into one of those 'deep' discussions over my needle choice for xyz fabric with whatever thread.

    I like to use an Organ 80 or 90needle as I find them less expensive than Scmetz and they still do a great job. If really pushed to the edge by a fussy thread I use a 14 topstitch – either Schmetz or Organ. That has always done the trick. As for changing needles – I do it when the machine starts to feel a bit funny – or plays up and everything else has been ruled out. Oh – and when I run over a rouge pin and it gets all smooshed.

    I have taken a leaf out of your book and now use Isacord thread for free motion ( and sometimes piecing if I forget to change it- with no apparent ill effects) – wow that stuff comes in some funky colours – and it is cheap!!! Quality and cheap – that is a rarity!

    So – thanks for giving my the confidence not to want to go and hide in the corner next time someone gives me 'the look' when they see the needle in my machine or wants to play Quilting Top Trumps.

  10. Bethany says:

    LOL. I feel much better. I use 70/10 sharps for both piecing and quilting. Why change needles if you don't have to?

    I bought a case of 22 packages that has lasted me several years. It's probably time to restock.

    Only other needles I use are embroidery needles for my embroidery machine.

  11. Thst's the BEST advice I've ever read about needles. Frankly, your honesty is refreshing. I also think that changing your needle is important and I'm going to try using just the #80 for everything now. It truly can be stressful trying to remember what's in the machine!

  12. Emma says:

    Funny, I use a topstitch needle for pretty much everything. The larger eye works well for my machine. When I remember, I switch to a sharp for quilting, and I do have different sizes, but for me a topstitch 80 is my 'universal' quilting needle!

  13. jdqltr says:

    80/12 needles are the most universal, but I use sharps for piecing. It's helps to keep my machine from "eating" those first few threads when I start a new seam, but I don't use "starters" or "enders" either. The other size I keep on hand at all times is 90/14. I use a lot of YLI & King Tut quilting thread and those threads are just too big for an 80/12 eye. My rule of thumb, if the auto needle threader won't thread the needle, the needle is too small.

  14. As a sewing teacher I get this question all the time and when starting students off I give them a topstitching needle ( which is often the same build at a metalic needle)..this works in 90% of all projects.. if skipping becomes a problem then move on… I will admit to changing needles much more often on my longarm but it gets a hard workout and purrs with a new needle 🙂

    Maddie
    http://www.freshstitches.blogspot.com

  15. Rannyjean says:

    I am with you, I change my needle frequently and use the 80/12 as well, it works.

  16. Needles and Thread! Two things that still have me baffled! I'm glad to know that I'm not crazy in trying to figure why I should use one needle for this and another for that. I like things simple. Thanks for making choosing needles simple!

  17. I tend to just stick with the same sort of needle, it makes it easier and besides I am a bit lazy as well. Also makes it easy to remember what sort of needle to get. Cynical me, also thinks that the manufacturers are mainly interested in making money with all their different types of needles. Love your blog, I am a new Horizon user also so have been very interested in your thoughts on the machine.

  18. Tsigeyusv says:

    First off, thank you for asking for suggestions and then responding. I really appreciate that.

    The last few time I have quilted I wanted to use a varigated YLI thread, but a solid color Superior threads cotton-poly (I think) blend. I had such an issue with thread breakage that I almost gave up. I played with tension, with slowing down my movements, changing needles. I did almost everything I could think of to make it better. I finally switched to using the same thread top and bobbin. Are there any tricks/hints when using two different threads, or will this always be a problem between different weights and materials in the threads?

  19. Yeah, it's good to have someone give me permission to do what I already do! LOL! I just keep trying different threads and needles until I find something that works. If it takes me a long time to figure that out, I write down the right combo somewhere and hope I can find it when I need it.
    Susan

  20. Judy M says:

    Thanks Leah for your honesty and for debunking the myth of the "needle police!" It does reinforce my commitment to not be paralyzed by thinking there is just one "right" way of doing things. Experience and the end results will be the best thumbs up for what works for us. But with that also comes a necessary willingness to try different approaches to get better results and to commit to regular scheduled new needles. I have found a metallic needle to work best with metallic thread, but then again I'm also guilty of deciding to hand quilt certain motifs with metallic thread, thinking I'll avoid frustration, only to find that hand quilting with metallic thread is equally as tricky as using the machine.

    I've purchased a gigantic size of a daily pill dispenser to organize my machine needles. I organize by size and can write on the clear pill holder each size inside. Has seven slots, one I keep for needles waiting to be disposed.

    One of your great suggestions on the blog is to keep a diary of what threads work with what needles.

  21. Kay Lynne says:

    I usually use a 80 or 90 Schmetz Universal needle. I also like Schmetz quilting needles that I only buy if they're on sale. I like them only because the eye of the needle is bigger and easier to thread. So Fine Thread from Superior Threads is my favorite quilting thread. If you use high quality thread (no matter what manufacturer), it makes life much easier and you don't need all the fancy needles. Discount thread isn't a bargain when it doesn't run through your machine smoothly and breaks all the time.

  22. Cheryl says:

    I am an advid machine quilter also,I also purchased a Janome 6500 last year in sept,I love the machine, however I had issues with the lose thread (uneven) stitches on the bottom of my quilts , I thought it was the threads, until I went back to the shop and told them my problem and I ended up buying a Bobbin Holder for Free Quilting and hand-look quilt stitch .For thread I like simlpicty the best, embordery needles work for me

  23. Linda says:

    A tip on using metallic thread–years ago I didn't know Schmetz made needles for metallics, so I used my universal needle. The thread kept fraying and breaking. Then I read a hint somewhere. Run a very skinny line of Sewers Aid (liquid silicone in a little plastic squeeze bottle)down your spool of thread before sewing or winding the bobbin. Voila! Problem solved. There was no more shredding or fraying. My project went like a breeze after that. Do make sure your needle hole is large enough for the metallic thread to pass through easily, though. I think I had to go to a 90/14 for what I was doing at the time.

  24. Linda says:

    I'm a landscape quilter, which can present some different challenges, compared to conventional quilting. Having to put the needle through several layers of fabric and dried glue, I've discovered the Schmetz universal 80/12 sometimes does the job and sometimes not. My machine is a an old Viking Husquvarna. I finally got the manual out. Voila! It said for freemotion work, use a Schmetz STRETCH needle. On my current landscape quilt, that's working like a dream. Doesn't mean it will on the next, though. I do always use Isacord thread, so that's a constant. I have also had some good luck with a Schmetz Microtex needle.

  25. Anonymous says:

    When piecing or quilting you are primarily using one kind of fabric…so it makes sense that you don't need to have a lot of different needle sizes. However if you also do garment and craft sewing with many different types of fabrics, you really need the right size needle for that fabric. Universal 10/12's just don't cut it for denim or for organza!

  26. Roberta Jehn says:

    It is so nice to come home from work and read your latest blog while I have a cup of tea and relax.
    I appreciated your comments about needles. I do about the same as you with the choice of needles. Sometimes my choice is the needle remaining in the package. If I do not have metallic needles, I have used top stitching needles with good results. I change my needle with each new project, more often if I start hearing a popping sound when the needle pierces the fabric, a sure sign that the needle has a barb. I also clean and oil my machine after every 2 bobbin refills. This keeps it humming. I keep empty pill vials to put old, dull, or bent needles & pins in. A safe way to dispose of them.
    Leah, I love the home page and the display of 100 filler designs on a page. A very easy way to quickly look up and review a video.

  27. Leah Day says:

    Hi Marie – Actually I started using Universal 80/12 when I was sewing garments and used many different weights and types of fabrics from denim to stretch velvet to slinky rayon to organza.

    The overall rule is just to try stitching on a scrap of fabric and if your machine eats it or breaks a needle, change to something different and see if it works better.

    Cheers,

    Leah

  28. Anonymous says:

    Leah, good for you. Thanks for sharing what works for you, essentially giving permission for other quilters to feel more comfortable using what works for them.
    Happy quilting!

    Teri

  29. JoAnne says:

    Leah, thank you for telling us what needles you use. I appreciate your sharing this information with us. You speak from experience and it costs us absolutely nothing.

    I have learned so much more from you than from all the workshops on FMQ that I have attended and those workshops were taught by quilters whose names all of us would recognize. I cannot thank you enough!

  30. Funoldhag says:

    P.S. I failed to mention I love your blog and videos! Good job, Leah.

  31. Funoldhag says:

    How refreshing to read your post on needles and thread. I have been sewing since I was thirteen and quilting for probably 35 years and I, too, don't change my needle very often. My Bernina, a gift for my 60th birthday, is 22 years old and sews like a dream. Doesn't seem to be too fussy about the thread or needles. Wonderful to read that there are other quilters out there that think as I do. Cheers – Carol

  32. Katie says:

    you are so funny – thanks to your blog and all your fabulous tips I am now FMQing. I also use the same needle when piecing and FMQing – why not?? If it aint broke why fix it? It's a waste to change needles when they're still good. I found that after one smaller project a higher quality needle (organ) worked better in my machine (Janome) than a brand new cheaper needle straight out of the package (singer)!

    I still can't seem to figure out why my machine won't do left turns – I can't stitch to the left in a straight line for very long or the top thread breaks or all balls up in the back. This happens only when I'm using a poly/blend thread in the top and Aurifil in the bottom..

  33. Thanks! I really thought it was ridiculous to change a needle so often as what they said (I forget now what it was). I have used a top stitch needle for free motion quilting, but don't really notice any difference. The thing that makes the most difference to me is having the bobbin area clean of lint. I can tell right away if I need to clean it out.

  34. Brakmack says:

    Thank you so much for your post! I was secretly hiding the fact that I used one needle from my quilting teacher. It worked at the time so I kept using it. It's a relief to know that I'm not the only one. I also wanted to mention that I LOVE your blog. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Awesome!

  35. This made me laugh. Just last month a couple of us in our guild researched and shared a lot of info about needles and thread choices, and provided a ton of samples etc… and I was feeling really out of depth because I rarely change my type of needle. At this point I use 75/11 almost exclusively and also feel that having new needles as needed is more important! I have only recently discovered metallic needles and it reopens my eye to playing with fancy threads again, but for almost all piecing, quilting, sewing decorative or sewing practical – the needles all come from the same package of 75/11 organs I love. lol, thanks for giving me hope that IF I am plebian, we are a strong and fierce group!

  36. Rachael Dorr says:

    I know I'm commenting on a really old post and I'm sure you have found metallic threads that work for you – but Yenmet and the Filtec glisten are really strong and have transformed my opinion on metallic threads x

  37. marie elena russo says:

    I cannot get that individual stitch look on my janome 1600qp?

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